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Home / Products /

Vitamin C Serum Benefits: Skin Hydration, Brightening, Elasticity & More

June 23, 2022 • By Maya Khamala (reviewed by Dr. Amy B. Lewis, M.D.)

  • Vitamin C is prized for its powerful anti-aging, collagen-boosting, UV-protecting skin care benefits
  • Topical application of Vitamin C serum brightens and evens skin tone, reduces hyperpigmentation, enhances elasticity and hydrates the skin
  • These skin care products are very safe, with minimal side effects

Vitamin C is an organic compound, that when applied topically, can address a number of common skin concerns. Found in a wide range of skin care products such as vitamin C serum, benefits are many with an emphasis on skin rejuvenation and protection.   

Contents

  • The Role of Vitamin C in Skin Care
  • What Is a Vitamin C Serum?
  • Benefits of Vitamin C Serums for Your Skin
  • Vitamin C Serums Side Effects
  • Do Vitamin C Serums Cause Acne?

The Role of Vitamin C in Skin Care

Normal skin contains high concentrations of vitamin C which play a role in maintaining skin’s health and function. It aids in wound healing and promotes the formation of collagen and elastin to strengthen skin. 

In addition, vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that can reduce inflammation and protect skin from UV damage by scavenging free radicals. It can lighten hyperpigmentation by interfering with tyrosinase activity which in turn reduces melanin production.  

Vitamin C therefore plays a key role in protecting skin from harmful external elements; these same qualities also contribute to rejuvenating damaged skin.  

Vitamin C and skin type

There are several types of vitamin C; some are better suited to certain skin types or conditions than others.

L-ascorbic acid (LAA) is vitamin C in its purest form and is appropriate for both normal and oily skin. It is the most effective for topical administration, the most popular and  the most studied. However, LAA is considered an unstable molecule, and as such offers poor penetration in this form. 

To remedy this, other ingredients are typically added to skin care products such as ferulic acid to reduce its acidity to a pH less than 3.5. This has been shown to improve both stability and absorption. 

Sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP) is a water-soluble derivative of Vitamin C. It is a relatively stable form of vitamin C with a neutral pH, making it ideal for sensitive skin. It has also demonstrated significant improvements in acne treatment.

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) is a water-soluble derivative of vitamin C. It is less potent than LAA but it has been shown to achieve consistent delivery of vitamin C into the skin.

One study examining acne and MAP found it was a powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory and prevented sebum oxidation in acne. Sensitive and dry skin would also benefit from this form due to its anti-inflammatory effects, and because it is the most hydrating in its class and protects against transepidermal water loss.

What Is a Vitamin C Serum?

A serum is a highly concentrated liquid that is silky in texture and typically water-based with few lubricating agents. Vitamin C serums also contain other active ingredients depending on the product, such as vitamin E, another antioxidant, to help the vitamin C absorb more effectively.  

How to use vitamin C serums

Vitamin C serums at 8%–20% concentrations are optimal for skin as higher concentrations do not bring greater results and can, in fact, lead to irritation. 

A vitamin C serum is best applied in the morning to protect your skin from UV radiation when you go outdoors. 

The rule of thumb is to apply skin care products in order of thinnest to thickest consistency. 

In this case, you would apply it after toning but before moisturizing. Two pumps should produce a pea-size amount of serum – no more than this is required.

Smooth the serum onto your skin (including the eye area) with upward strokes and allow it to absorb for about 1 minute before applying moisturizer.

You can also look for vitamin C serums that are formulated with other skin-rejuvenating agents such as hyaluronic acid which can boost skin’s moisture and plump skin. When combined, it can produce a significant improvement in wrinkles, skin texture and elasticity. 

Benefits of Vitamin C Serums for Your Skin

Vitamin C serums are prized for their wealth of skin benefits, most notably for their antioxidant effects. 

Collagen production

Both aging and damage caused by the sun’s rays contribute to collagen loss, leading to wrinkles and sagging skin. Vitamin C effectively boosts collagen production to smooth and plump skin and reduce the look of fine lines and wrinkles. It has also shown promise in fading dark under-eye circles.

Hyperpigmentation

Vitamin C serums work to fade hyperpigmentation by inhibiting melanin production for a more even and brighter skin tone.

Fights free radical damage and signs of aging

The antioxidant properties of vitamin C help neutralize potentially carcinogenic free radicals, including reactive oxygen species (ROS), which are formed when skin is exposed to UV radiation. 

Vitamin C is so effective at protecting the skin it has been found to reduce UVB-induced redness by 52% and sunburn by 40%–60%.

This action prevents damage to the skin and prevents premature wrinkles, the development of hyperpigmented spots and uneven skin tone to help maintain a more youthful appearance. 

Skin repair

Vitamin C serum maintains skin health by stimulating collagen production to thicken and strengthen skin, assist in wound healing, and promote skin cell turnover. It’s also used in conjunction with microneedling to fade the look of acne scars.

Vitamin C Serums Side Effects

Vitamin C serums can cause itching, redness or tingling for those with allergies or sensitive skin. Perform a patch test first to observe how your skin reacts. 

Do Vitamin C Serums Cause Acne?

Vitamin C serums have not been shown to cause acne.

Although antioxidants help protect the skin against free radical damage, some research suggests that small amounts of ROS are actually beneficial and that they have antimicrobial effects.

In theory, this could suggest that ROS may actually aid in acne prevention by inhibiting the growth of bacteria, however, this research is limited at best.

How to pick a vitamin C serum for acne-prone skin

LAA vitamin C serum, although known for its effectiveness, is unstable due to its relatively low pH and may cause irritation for some users. As SAP is amore stable form of vitamin C, it is considered a more effective treatment for acne-prone skin. 

Takeaway

Vitamin C serums are available in several forms and at  concentrations of 8%–20%.

When used consistently, these serums have been shown to provide a number of significant skin benefits including lightening hyperpigmentation, softening lines and wrinkles, strengthening skin through increased collagen production, fighting acne and protecting against sun damage.

As an antioxidant, vitamin C can eliminate harmful free radicals and protect skin. It can also brighten the complexion, and hydrate skin resulting in a more youthful appearance.

Sources

  • Pullar JM, Carr AC, Vissers MCM. The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients. 2017;9(8):866. Published 2017 Aug 12. doi:10.3390/nu9080866
  • Farris PK. Topical vitamin C: a useful agent for treating photoaging and other dermatologic conditions. Dermatol Surg. 2005;31(7 Pt 2):814-818. doi:10.1111/j.1524-4725.2005.31725
  • Al-Niaimi F, Chiang NYZ. Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2017;10(7):14-17. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5605218/
  • Woolery-Lloyd H, Baumann L, Ikeno H. Sodium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate 5% lotion for the treatment of acne vulgaris: a randomized, double-blind, controlled trial. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2010;9(1):22-27. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2165.2010.00480.x
  • Telang PS. Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian Dermatol Online J. 2013;4(2):143-146. doi:10.4103/2229-5178.110593
  • Pullar JM, Carr AC, Vissers MCM. The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients. 2017;9(8):866. Published 2017 Aug 12. doi:10.3390/nu9080866
  • Comstock J, Gold MH (eds): Cosmeceuticals. Aesthet Dermatol. Basel, Karger, 2021, vol 5, pp 38–46. doi:10.1159/000491844
  • Al-Niaimi F, Chiang NYZ. Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2017;10(7):14-17. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5605218/
  • Tran D, Townley JP, Barnes TM, Greive KA. An antiaging skin care system containing alpha hydroxy acids and vitamins improves the biomechanical parameters of facial skin. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2014;8:9-17. Published 2014 Dec 19. doi:10.2147/CCID.S75439
  • Carr AC, Maggini S. Vitamin C and Immune Function. Nutrients. 2017;9(11):1211. Published 2017 Nov 3. doi:10.3390/nu9111211
  • Fitzpatrick RE, Rostan EF. Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage. Dermatol Surg. 2002;28(3):231-236. doi:10.1046/j.1524-4725.2002.01129.x
  • Ohshima H, Mizukoshi K, Oyobikawa M, et al. Effects of vitamin C on dark circles of the lower eyelids: quantitative evaluation using image analysis and echogram. Skin Res Technol. 2009;15(2):214-217. doi:10.1111/j.1600-0846.2009.00356.x
  • Sanadi RM, Deshmukh RS. The effect of Vitamin C on melanin pigmentation – A systematic review. J Oral Maxillofac Pathol. 2020;24(2):374-382. doi:10.4103/jomfp.JOMFP_207_20
  • Abbas MAM, Elgamal EEAE, Zaky MS, Elsaie ML. Microneedling with topical vitamin C versus microneedling with topical insulin in the treatment of atrophic post-acne scars: A split-face study. Dermatol Ther. 2022;35(5):e15376. doi:10.1111/dth.15376
  • Fang FC. Antimicrobial actions of reactive oxygen species. mBio. 2011;2(5):e00141-11. Published 2011 Sep 6. doi:10.1128/mBio.00141-11
» Show all

Last modified: June 23, 2022

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