- Collagen is a structural protein necessary in the maintenance of skin elasticity.
- Collagen depletes with age, causing wrinkles, sagging and a dull appearance.
- Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, is a water-soluble vitamin with the ability to raise collagen levels and produce firmer, more youthful-looking skin.
Collagen is a naturally occurring structural protein made up of amino acids, and is found in the connective tissue of our bodies such as the skin, hair, joints, bones and blood vessels.
It plays an important role in the maintenance of skin’s stability, elasticity and support. These stores however, deplete with age.
Applied topically and with regularity, vitamin C or ascorbate products have the ability to raise the production of collagen, producing firmer, more youthful-looking skin.
Does Vitamin C Stimulate Collagen Production?
Vitamin C does stimulates collagen production. It plays an essential role in collagen synthesis – a complex set of chemical reactions in the body that are necessary to produce collagen.
A vitamin C deficiency has been associated with skin conditions resulting from poor collagen formation, including scurvy, and is associated with scaly, dry and hyperpigmented skin.
This vitamin is responsible for binding cells together during the creation of collagen. Without adequate levels of vitamin C, the body can’t form, store or produce more collagen.
While vitamin C is responsible for raising collagen levels, it can also decrease elastin, a protein that is often overproduced in photodamaged skin.
Best Vitamin C ProductsTo Boost Collagen Synthesis
There are numerous forms of vitamin C available on the market—both topical and oral—which can be effective at boosting collagen synthesis. The right one for you depends largely on your skin care goals and preferences.
Serums
Vitamin C serums are considered one of the most effective anti-aging products available due to the high concentration of their active ingredients. These high levels are designed to penetrate the skin faster and with more ease than creams, making them well-suited to targeting specific skin concerns.
Vitamin C serums work to improve the tone and texture of skin. The stronger the concentration of vitamin C in your serum, the more effective the product will be, however concentrations over 20% are commonly considered harsh.
Creams
Most vitamin C creams and moisturizers offer a mix of hydration for those with dry skin as well as UV protection.
Not all preparations are as physiologically effective as serums however, as creams tend to offer lower concentrations than serums. While this means they may not be ideally suited to targeted skin concerns, they do help to effectively replenish and hydrate skin.
One study did find that topical vitamin C cream was effective at reducing deep furrows after a three-month period of use.
Supplements
The role of vitamin C as a nutrient can provide a range of health benefits as well as an overall boost to your body’s natural collagen formation. Increasing your vitamin C levels by taking a supplement has beneficial effects such as stimulating collagen synthesis.
Although vitamin C supplements have been shown to boost collagen growth and contribute to overall skin health, there is no evidence to show it is effective at targeting specific dermatology-associated skin concerns.
Vitamin C Alternatives
Retinoids are one of the most popular anti-aging ingredients on the market as they work to plump skin, boost collagen and encourage new cell growth. They are intended to be applied at night after cleansing to rejuvenate the skin during sleep.
Niacinamide, more commonly known as vitamin B3, is another effective ingredient that can boost collagen production to improve the overall appearance of skin.
Glycolic acid in topical formulations for skin care has the ability to exfoliate and hydrate, fade pigmentation and stimulate collagen production.
Vitamin E has antioxidant properties to counter the signs of photoaging by neutralizing free radicals. These properties render it effective at boosting collagen levels, and is why it is an ingredient in many over-the-counter anti-aging creams.
Takeaway
Topical vitamin C products are powered to boost collagen synthesis, leading to firmer, healthy skin that has fewer wrinkles and furrows, and an overall more youthful appearance.
Some vitamin C products, such as serums, offer higher concentrations than other products and are better suited to treating targeted skin concerns; others such as supplements, are suitable for an overall boost of collagen growth.
Always choose a product that you are able to apply with ease and regularity given your particular lifestyle.
Sources
- Telang P. S. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian dermatology online journal, 4(2), 143–146. doi:10.4103/2229-5178.110593
- Pinnell SR. Regulation of collagen synthesis. J Invest Dermatol. 1982 Jul;79 Suppl 1:73s-76s. ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/7086193
- Maxfield L, Crane JS. Vitamin C Deficiency (Scurvy) [Updated 2019 Jun 14]. In: StatPearls [Internet]. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing; 2019 Jan-. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK493187/
- Pullar, J. M., Carr, A. C., & Vissers, M. (2017). The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients, 9(8), 866. doi:10.3390/nu9080866
- Davidson JM, LuValle PA, Zoia O, Quaglino D Jr, Giro M. Ascorbate differentially regulates elastin and collagen biosynthesis in vascular smooth muscle cells and skin fibroblasts by pretranslational mechanisms. J Biol Chem. 1997 Jan 3;272(1):345-52. ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/8995268
- Humbert PG, Haftek M, Creidi P, Lapière C, Nusgens B, Richard A, Schmitt D, Rougier A, Zahouani H. Topical ascorbic acid on photoaged skin. Clinical, topographical and ultrastructural evaluation: double-blind study vs. placebo. Exp Dermatol. 2003 Jun;12(3):237-44. ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12823436
- Shaw, G., Lee-Barthel, A., Ross, M. L., Wang, B., & Baar, K. (2017). Vitamin C-enriched gelatin supplementation before intermittent activity augments collagen synthesis. The American journal of clinical nutrition, 105(1), 136–143. doi:10.3945/ajcn.116.138594
- Kim B. H. (2010). Safety Evaluation and Anti-wrinkle Effects of Retinoids on Skin. Toxicological research, 26(1), 61–66. doi:10.5487/TR.2010.26.1.061
- Levin, J., & Momin, S. B. (2010). How much do we really know about our favorite cosmeceutical ingredients?. The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology, 3(2), 22–41. ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2921764/
- Bernstein EF, Lee J, Brown DB, Yu R, Van Scott E. Glycolic acid treatment increases type I collagen mRNA and hyaluronic acid content of human skin. Dermatol Surg. 2001 May;27(5):429-33. ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11359487
- Keen, M. A., & Hassan, I. (2016). Vitamin E in dermatology. Indian dermatology online journal, 7(4), 311–315. doi:10.4103/2229-5178.185494