Exfoliation 101: Meaning, Benefits, How to Do It, and Why You Should

• Exfoliation is the removal of dead cells on the skin’s surface in order to uncover new cells and improve overall complexion.
• Exfoliation can be performed mechanically, by using abrasive scrubs, or chemically, by using formulas that contain acids which dissolve and remove dead skin cells without any scrubbing.
• Regular exfoliation can improve the ability of skin to absorb your skin care products, resulting in a more rejuvenated appearance.

Your skin cells undergo a natural turnover every month or so. When this occurs, the outer layer of your skin (the epidermis) sheds and reveals new skin underneath (the dermis). 

However, sometimes dead skin cells don’t fully shed, creating the appearance of rough, dry skin, enlarged pores and dullness. You can improve your skin’s tone and texture by exfoliating. 

What Is Exfoliation?

Exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells on the skin’s outermost surface. Exfoliation can be achieved mechanically or chemically, with the use of tools, scrubs or leave-on treatments. 

Benefits of Skin Exfoliation

As we age, the process of cell regeneration slows down. This means that the body does not shed skin cells or generate new ones as quickly, resulting in a dull complexion. Proper exfoliation can provide the following skin care benefits:

• Fades age spots by removing dead skin cells that contain pigment.
• Unclogs pores, releasing built-up oils on your skin.
• Reduces pore size and the appearance of acne scars.
• Renders fine lines and wrinkles less visible.
• Allows for better absorption of skin care products such as moisturizers, serums, acne treatments, etc. 

Should you exfoliate?

Whatever your age or skin type, regular exfoliation is important to ensure your skin is fresh and free of pore-clogging debris. However, taking your skin type and condition into account is essential for best results, particularly if you have sensitivities, such as dry skin or acne. Anyone can react poorly to exfoliants if used too frequently or incorrectly.

Normal skin types are neither too dry nor too oily and therefore have a wide range of exfoliant devices and treatment options at their disposal.

Those with dry skin should avoid any ingredient that might cause skin to become more parched, such as certain retinoids or benzoyl peroxide. Opt instead for a more gentle approach, using a brown sugar paste or a very mild glycolic or lactic acid.

If you have oily skin, you may be able to tolerate stronger products, but use caution. Always do a spot test with your chosen exfoliant before applying. A combination of glycolic and salicylic acid products are recommended since they treat acne and exfoliate at the same time. 

Mechanical vs. Chemical Exfoliation

There are two main categories of exfoliation: mechanical and chemical, and the one you choose depends upon your unique needs. It’s important to consider any skin sensitivities you may have before choosing an exfoliation method in order to avoid stinging, flaking or itching after use.

In mechanical exfoliation, dead cells are buffed away using products such as scrubs containing granular substances and/or devices such as brushes or gloves. Scrubs can work for some, but they can be too abrasive for others. Going to a dermatologist for microdermabrasion or dermaplaning would also qualify as mechanical exfoliation. 

Chemical exfoliation uses chemicals in the form of cleansers, toners, serums or peels to remove dead skin cells. Chemical exfoliants speed up cell turnover and unsticks the cellular glue (desmosomes) holding dead cells together in the outer layer of the skin. 

Chemical exfoliants

Leave-on hydroxy acids are the most common type of chemical exfoliant. They might come in the form of a toner, liquid-soaked pads or a cream. There are two main types of chemical exfoliants: alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs). 

AHAs don’t penetrate too deeply into the pores because they’re water soluble. AHAs are well suited to dry, sun damaged, uneven or hyperpigmented skin. Lactic acids and glycolic acids are both AHAs.

In contrast, BHAs are oil-soluble, allowing them to penetrate deeper into the skin. They’re appropriate for acne-prone, oily skin, and have powerful anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties as well. Salicylic acid is a BHA. 

Some products combine the use of AHAs and BHAs, a combination well-suited to those with oily or acne-prone skin types, as they work to exfoliate and treat acne simultaneously. 

At-home chemical peels usually contain hydroxy acids at high concentrations, although there are some deeper peels which use other ingredients such as trichloroacetic acid (TCA) and tretinoin. Typically these more intensive chemical peels are performed in spas or clinics.

Enzymatic exfoliants

Enzyme exfoliants work by breaking the strands of protein holding outer layer skin cells together. The most popular enzymes used to exfoliate skin are bromelain from pineapple, papain from papaya, Bacillus bacterial enzymes and pumpkin. You can find these in a range of skin care products. 

Enzyme exfoliants tend to have larger granules that don’t penetrate too deeply into the skin, making them appropriate for sensitive skin. 

Exfoliation devices

There are a large range of tools available for the face as well as the body, for mechanical exfoliation purposes.  

While those with dry, sensitive, or acne-prone skin may prefer to use a simple washcloth to exfoliate; others find Konjac sponges with their jellylike texture to be effective in exfoliating and removing grime and oil.  Face or body brushes are also popular choices and are available in many varieties. 

Overscrubbing with these devices can cause irritation, so it’s important not to press too hard, scrub too long or too often. 

You may opt to use a scrub in addition to or in place of your exfoliation device. These are many varieties available including coffee, fruit, sugar or salt scrubs. Usually, the smaller the granule size in the scrub, the less harsh it will be to skin.

Dermaplaning

Dermaplaning uses a very fine blade to gently shave off the top layer of your skin, which removes fine hair and exfoliates the surface layers of the skin.  Dermaplaning treatments are offered in spas and specialized clinics offering cosmetic skin care treatments.

How to Exfoliate Your Skin Safely

If you choose to exfoliate, it’s important to do so safely to ensure you do not damage your skin, cause irritation or trigger acne breakouts. 

Normal or combination skin types should generally exfoliate two to three times per week. If you have sensitive skin, you may want to limit exfoliation to once per week. 

Here are a few basic guidelines for exfoliation by body area.

Face

If using a manual exfoliating scrub, apply it once or twice a week, after your facial cleansing routine. This will keep your pores unclogged without causing irritation. 

Since leave-on chemical exfoliants are less harsh than manual ones, opt for two to three applications per week o start, leaving a day between treatments. This will give your skin a chance to get accustomed to the hydroxy acids before gradually increasing your usage if needed. 

It’s best to exfoliate your face at night so you can follow with a hydrating night cream and allow your skin to replenish while you sleep. 

Lips

If your lips are peeling from sunburn or freezing temperatures, choose a gentle lip scrub that removes dead skin while soothing the sensitive skin below the surface, and use it two to three times per week. For a more DIY approach, you might try applying Vaseline very gently with a soft toothbrush.

Body 

Use a daily leave-on AHA body exfoliant that contains glycolic or lactic acid to improve the look of dry, crepey or sun-damaged skin. Unlike a regular body scrub, AHAs boost the skin’s ability to stay hydrated and firm. If your skin is prone to clogged pores, blemishes or roughness, opt for a daily application of a BHA body exfoliant containing 2% salicylic acid. 

Feet

Feet tend to accumulate dry patches of skin more than anywhere else on the body. Employ a soft salt or sugar scrub for this task, and rub the patches gently until they clear up. Follow with a soothing foot cream nightly to protect your skin.

General rules for both scrubs and chemical exfoliators

• Apply the product gently using small, circular motions for about 30 seconds; rinse off with lukewarm water. 
• If you use a brush or sponge, use short light strokes.
• Don’t exfoliate if you have open cuts, wounds or sunburn. 
• Apply moisturizer immediately after exfoliating to keep your skin hydrated. 
• How often you exfoliate depends on your skin type and chosen method; typically, the more aggressive the exfoliation, the less often it needs to be done.

Exfoliation and Your Skin Care Routine

The best time to use an exfoliant depends on your habits and lifestyle. For example, if you wear makeup on a daily basis, exfoliating at night would help to lift any remaining makeup particles from your skin and ensure your skin care products are penetrating properly. If your face is dull in the morning, or if you have oily skin, exfoliating in the morning may be more beneficial. 

Before you exfoliate 

In advance of exfoliation, be sure your skin is not sunburnt to avoid irritation. It is best to integrate the use of sunscreen into your skin care routine prior to starting an exfoliation regimen.

If you are using a leave-on exfoliant, cleanse beforehand. It’s best to avoid cleansing afterward, so that your exfoliator has more time to work on your skin. 

After you exfoliate

After removal, apply a serum and/or a moisturizer for your skin type; serum first as it is most readily absorbed, followed by a moisturizer to lock moisture in.

When to Stop Exfoliating

Overexfoliation can cause skin irritation, redness or even rashes. The scrubbing motion necessary to exfoliate can sometimes remove too much skin. 

Some people may also have or develop allergic reactions to exfoliating agents. If you experience these problems, try alternative exfoliation products and reduce your number of exfoliation treatments. 

Your skin needs its protective outer layer, and overexfoliation can lead to skin that is inflamed and dehydrated. It may appear shiny, with an accompanying tight sensation or it may develop new sensitivities.

If this occurs, halt all exfoliation until your skin appears and feels normal. Then, let it rest for a few days before trying to exfoliate again.

How to Exfoliate Naturally

In 2018, the US banned face washes or scrubs containing microbeads because they do not dissolve, instead making their way into natural water systems where they pose serious environmental concerns. They can also cause tiny tears in the surface of your skin so microbeads are not a good option. 

That being said, there are a number of natural alternatives to microbeads and other harsh mechanical exfoliators:

• Oatmeal is a gentle natural exfoliator with anti-inflammatory properties, making it well suited for inflamed or irritated skin. Combine 1 tbsp oatmeal with 1 tbsp of brown sugar, and 1 tbsp raw honey. You can also add Jojoba oil or other essential oils for additional benefits.
• Baking soda is a natural exfoliator and is inexpensive compared to other natural exfoliators. Make a baking soda face mask by mixing 1 tbsp of baking soda with a few drops of water and a vitamin E soft liquid gel pill.
• Lemon contains citric acid, an AHA, a powerful natural ingredient to use as an exfoliant. Combine 1/2 fresh lemon with 1/2 cup of sugar, 1 tsp of olive oil and 1 tsp of organic honey and apply.
• Sugar is an effective natural exfoliator as the rough, small grains are ideal for removing dead skin. Sugar also contains glycolic acid, which helps to break down dead skin cells and reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. Make your own sugar exfoliant using 1/2 cup of sugar and 1/2 cup of olive oil. 

Takeaway

Integrating regular exfoliation into your skin care regimen works to speed up cell turnover rates and slough off dead cells from the surface of your skin for an overall improvement in tone and texture. Proper exfoliation can also work to unclog pores, treat acne, fade age spots, reduce wrinkles and even prep your skin for better absorption of other skin care products.

Whether opting for a mechanical exfoliator or a chemical one, It’s important to proceed gently and with caution, always introducing new products to your skin gradually. 

Although there are many commercial exfoliants available in stores, opting to make at-home exfoliators is a popular choice due to the relative affordability of ingredients and the flexibility to customize formulas to suit personal skin needs.

Different exfoliants are designed for different skin types. Whether you go the commercial or DIY route, always be sure to take your skin type and condition into account to select an appropriate exfoliation product or recipe.