- Charcoal face masks contain activated charcoal, an ingredient that has unique detoxifying properties.
- Several types are available, including rinse-off and peel-off masks.
- These face masks claim to offer many skin care benefits including exfoliation, reduced oiliness and blackhead removal.
- Some purported benefits are not supported by science, and charcoal masks may cause negative side effects.
Charcoal face masks are a current topic of discussion among beauty vloggers and skin care enthusiasts for their claimed benefits. Their dark color is due to the primary ingredient, activated charcoal, which is well known for its purifying properties.
Charcoal masks are effective for treating oily skin and removing grime. However, they do carry risks for some users, and some of their reputed results are scientifically dubious.
Contents
How Do Charcoal Face Masks Work?
The charcoal particles in these masks draw out dirt and grime from pores and absorb excess oil; when the mask is washed or peeled away, these impurities are removed. Simultaneously, the slight coarseness of the charcoal particles gently removes dead skin cells to exfoliate the skin. The result is skin that feels soft, refreshed and deeply cleansed.
Why charcoal?
Activated charcoal has long been known for its detoxifying properties, and is the most used treatment for gastrointestinal poisoning in developed countries. Its unique properties are due to the wide surface area of charcoal particles, and that they bond readily with other chemical substances.
When administered orally to patients, activated charcoal has been observed to effectively bond with poisons and intoxicants, effectively preventing the body from processing them. Charcoal particles themselves are usually well tolerated, and rarely lead to complications.
Charcoal’s reputation for effectively cleansing the body of toxins while causing minimal irritation has led it to be a popular ingredient in face masks, as well as other hygienic and skin care products.
Its absorbent qualities are purported to effectively attract and absorb skin impurities as well as poisons and other intoxicants. However, there is no scientific basis for this theory. While it has been used for medical purposes for decades, activated charcoal’s effects on the skin have not yet been thoroughly studied.
Charcoal Face Mask Types
Several types of charcoal face masks are available. Each type offers its own set of benefits and potential downsides. Knowing the differences between these types will help you choose the charcoal mask that’s right for you.
Peel-off charcoal masks
Unlike most face masks, peel-off charcoal masks contain glue. They consist of a gel-like substance that is applied with a brush. These masks dry upon application and are then peeled away from the skin, along with all of the trapped oil, grime and dead skin cells. The peel-off removal has an immediate effect, leaving skin noticeably cleaner and softer.
However, while these masks often succeed at removing debris, their method of doing so is aggressive. The removal process is painful for many users, and can strip away healthy skin cells and small vellus hairs. This leaves the skin irritated and vulnerable to infection.
Rinse-off charcoal masks
Rinse-off charcoal masks offer a gentler alternative. Rather than peeling away skin cells and natural oils, the coarseness of the charcoal particles delicately exfoliates, and the masks lightly lift away debris. They offer painless removal and can be washed away easily with water or a warm, wet towel.
However, rinse-off charcoal masks do have some potential discomforts. The absorbent quality of the charcoal particles may remove excess oil, but poor-quality ingredients and frequent use can strip the skin of all natural oils.
This leaves the skin unbalanced and prone to dryness and flaking. This imbalance can trigger the sebaceous glands and lead to oilier skin in the long term.
The gentler process of rinse-off charcoal masks offers a less immediately apparent result than peel-off masks. Although peel-off masks are more painful to remove, their thorough removal of grime, oil and dead skin cells offers immediate results; users might therefore be underwhelmed by rinse-off masks.
Peel-off vs. rinse-off charcoal masks
Pros | Cons | |
Peel-off charcoal masks | Immediate results Leaves skin very soft | Can damage skin Painful removal process |
Rinse-off charcoal masks | Gentler on skin Washes off easily | Leaves skin dry Less apparent results |
Charcoal Face Mask Benefits
- A deeper clean: Purportedly draws out the material that clogs pores, resulting in a deeper clean than other face masks. However, there is no concrete evidence to support this claim.
- Exfoliation: Removes surface debris such as dead skin cells, leaving the skin soft and refreshed.
- Brighter complexion: The cleansing and exfoliating effect results in clearer skin, smaller pores and a brighter complexion.
A word about acne
Charcoal masks are often marketed as being well suited for acne-prone skin as the charcoal’s oil-absorbing properties can help reduce the oiliness often associated with acne and reduce outbreaks.
However, some peel-off masks further claim to be able to physically remove blackheads, and this is false. The white debris removed by these masks are usually sebaceous filaments, not blackheads.
These are a combination of dead skin cells, sebum and bacteria that naturally occur around hair follicles, and are not a sign of infection. Removing them does not have any beneficial effect.
While charcoal masks are effective in reducing oiliness, there is no scientific evidence to support that charcoal masks remove blackheads, or treat acne.
Safety and Side Effects
Charcoal masks can carry a range of negative side effects including:
- Loss of natural oils: With repeated use, the oil-absorbing effects of charcoal masks can strip the skin of all its natural oils, leading to further complications
- Worsens acne: When the skin is stripped of natural oils, the body may overcompensate by producing sebum, leaving pores clogged and resulting in breakouts.
- Increases dryness: Overuse of charcoal masks can disrupt the skin’s barrier function, leading to moisture loss, irritation, dryness and flaking
- Irritating chemicals: Charcoal masks may include harsh ingredients, such as overly coarse charcoals and strong glues which can damage skin and even cause chemical burns
Using charcoal masks safely
Fortunately, the worst of the side effects associated with charcoal masks can be easily avoided. Always follow package directions carefully and do not overuse. Discontinue use if any skin irritation develops. Lastly, after using a charcoal mask, be sure to apply moisturizer to prevent dryness.
DIY Charcoal Mask Recipes
When making your own mask, ensure you are using activated charcoal. Low-quality and coarse preparations of charcoal will harm the skin, and can strip away healthy skin cells and natural oils.
The ingredients in the following recipes are safe and should not cause irritation. That being said, those with dry or sensitive skin should perform a patch test to determine any sensitivities.
Charcoal face mask with bentonite clay
Bentonite clay has been demonstrated to effectively draw out toxins, heal minor blemishes, absorb excess oil and soothe rashes. It can be combined with charcoal to make a rinse-off mask that is especially suitable for oily skin.
Ingredients:
- 1 tsp activated charcoal powder
- 1 tsp bentonite clay
- 1 tsp coconut oil
- 1 pinch baking soda
Instructions:
- Combine all ingredients in a bowl to form a paste
- Apply to clean, dry skin with a brush
- Wait 10 minutes; rinse or wipe away with a wet towel
This recipe also incorporates the moisturizing properties of coconut oil, which minimizes the possibility of the mask leaving skin dry.
Peel-off charcoal face mask with gelatin
Gelatin can be used to make a peel-off charcoal mask solution that effectively adheres to impurities and traps them. Peeling the mask off quickly removes surface grime, dead skin cells and excess oil.
Ingredients:
- 1/2 tsp activated charcoal
- 1/2 tsp unflavored gelatin
- 1 tbsp warm water
Instructions:
- Combine all ingredients in a bowl to form a paste
- Apply to clean, dry skin with a brush
- Let dry for 30 minutes; peel off
- If any residue is left behind, or if the mask is too painful to peel off, remove with a warm, wet towel
Using gelatin instead of commercial glues will keep you safe from potentially harmful chemicals. However, some may still experience pain or discomfort due to the peel-off process. This mask is best suited for users seeking a quick surface cleanse, and is not recommended for users with dry or sensitive skin.
Charcoal face mask with aloe vera gel
Aloe vera is a vitamin-rich plant with clinically proven antioxidant and antibacterial properties. It cleanses the skin and reduces inflammation. When blended with charcoal, it can make a soothing rinse-off solution.
Ingredients:
- 1 tsp activated charcoal powder
- 1 tsp aloe vera gel
- 1 tsp water
Instructions:
- Combine all ingredients in a bowl
- Apply to clean, dry skin with a brush
- Wait 20 minutes; rinse or wipe with a warm, wet towel
Although no studies exist on the combined effects of aloe vera and charcoal, aloe vera’s anti-inflammatory effects can help to reduce any potential irritation caused by charcoal particles. That makes this mask slightly better suited to users with dry or sensitive skin than other varieties of charcoal mask.
Alternatives to Charcoal Masks
There are several alternatives available over the counter (OTC) that offer similar benefits to charcoal masks while avoiding some of the unpleasant side effects.
Bentonite clay, like charcoal, absorbs excess oil and has the added benefit of having antibacterial properties. It is also less likely to strip the skin of moisture.
Face masks with bentonite clay as an active ingredient offer the same cleanse provided by charcoal masks – without the potential drying effects.
For those seeking the blackhead-removing effect claimed by some charcoal mask brands, salicylic acid is an effective OTC blackhead treatment backed by science.
Takeaway
Peel-off and rinse-off charcoal masks are commercially available, and while both can be effective at treating oily skin and exfoliating dead cells, those with dry or sensitive skin may find them ineffective or harmful. All skin types should use these masks with caution to avoid irritating or harming the skin.
Charcoal masks have not been proven to effectively treat acne and draw out toxins from the skin, as claimed. However, they do offer benefits by reducing oiliness, exfoliating, and removing debris and dead skin cells – resulting in a refreshed appearance.
When buying OTC charcoal face masks, be sure to select products that make use of medical-grade activated charcoal and natural ingredients such as bentonite clay, aloe vera and coconut oil. Another option is to make your own masks using safe, simple ingredients
All this will help ensure your experience with charcoal masks is a positive one.
Sources
- Williams, L. B., & Haydel, S. E. (2010). Evaluation of the medicinal use of clay minerals as antibacterial agents. International geology review, 52(7/8), 745–770. doi:10.1080/00206811003679737
- Arif T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clinical, cosmetic and investigational dermatology, 8, 455–461. doi:10.2147/CCID.S84765
- Juurlink D. N. (2016). Activated charcoal for acute overdose: a reappraisal. British journal of clinical pharmacology, 81(3), 482–487. doi:10.1111/bcp.12793
- Cork, M. (1997). The importance of skin barrier function. Journal Of Dermatological Treatment, 8(sup1), S7-S13. doi:10.3109/09546639709160948
- Zellner, T., Prasa, D., Färber, E., Hoffmann-Walbeck, P., Genser, D., & Eyer, F. (2019). The Use of Activated Charcoal to Treat Intoxications. Deutsches Arzteblatt international, 116(18), 311–317. doi:10.3238/arztebl.2019.0311
- Plewig, G.; Wolff, H. H. (1976). “Sebaceous filaments (author’s transl)”. Archiv für Dermatologische Forschung. 255 (1): 9–21. PMID 130839. ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/130839
- Agero AL, Verallo-Rowell VM. A randomized double-blind controlled trial comparing extra virgin coconut oil with mineral oil as a moisturizer for mild to moderate xerosis. Dermatitis. 2004 Sep;15(3):109-16. ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15724344
- Tariq H, Zia M, Ihsan-Ul-Haq, Muhammad SA, Khan SA, Fatima N, Mannan A, Abbasi AM, Zhang M. Antioxidant, Antimicrobial, Cytotoxic, and Protein Kinase Inhibition Potential in Aloe vera L. Biomed Res Int. 2019 Jul 28;2019:6478187. doi:10.1155/2019/6478187